I am in Lyon, the beautiful city nestled in, around, and between the twin rivers of the Rhone and the Saone. I’m going to like it here.
Lyon is the center of the second largest metropolitan area of France with a regional population just under 2 million. It is also the considered the gastronomic center of France, something I will definitely explore as much as possible. As beautiful cities goes Lyon deserves at least an honorable mention. To the west is the “Hill that Prays” – it is dominated by the great Notre-Dame de Fourviere Basilica. To the north is the “Hill that Works” – where many of the workers in the silk trade found employment.
I have found a little apartment in the 5th arrondissement which is just on the west bank of the Rhone. This area is mainly pedestrian, very old, and chock full of shops, restaurants, and all sorts of entertainment. Definitely the happening place of Lyon, and I really lucked out. I am in an 18th century building looking across at the office of the Mayor of the 5th arrondissement, and just 100 meters away from the Cathedral St.-Jean. As I write this there’s a gentleman playing renaissance guitar music below my window busking for change. Trés chic!!!
The Opera de Lyon is a modern building covered in glass. Seen from the top of the Fourviere hill it dominates the center of town. But the architecture is such that it fits in beautifully with the older buildings there. The hall seats around 1300, and like most European opera houses it’s a real rats warren. It would not take much to get lost inside. I will have a chance to check it out from the vantage of the public Sunday when I see the last performance of their run of Britten’s Midsummer Night’s Dream. I’m very excited to get the chance to see this wonderful opera as I have never seen it staged.
Friday was my first chance to work with the opera choir. For Porgy & Bess they have been supplemented with 16 singers of African origin. The sound they get is tremendous. The first chord nearly blew me off of my stool. During the course of the day we managed to get through everything that they sing in the opera. The only hitches were…… shall we say ……. sociological? Much of the language used in P&B is very idiomatic of the time, the place, and the culture. Trying to get the chorus to sing things like “de Lawd” was interesting, to say the least. We had some very funny moments and quite enjoyed ourselves, or at least I did. We shall see about everyone else later. I realize I am behind in posting video. As soon as I have done some editing I will do so.
The weekend, thank all the Gods there are, is free. I have the opportunity to explore this beautiful city. I have already made friends with the owners of the Frommagerie (cheese shop), Boucherie (sic? anyway, that’s the butcher), and the wine shop (or one of the many in this small area). Only the guy @ the wine shop spoke English but that didn’t seem to be an impediment (for the record, my French sucks). After a good meal tonight I shall visit one of the multitudinous Irish pubs that seem to be in this area. I have no idea why they’re here and I hope to find out. In this small area I counted at least 8.
Monday we start up again. Everyone will be in place and major staging will commence. It shall certainly be interesting.
Paix